Long before Bordeaux nurtured its first grapevine, the ancient vintners of Georgia—yes, that Georgia, situated between the Caucasus Mountains and the Black Sea—were already adept at grape fermentation. Archaeological evidence suggests that this region has been harnessing the art of winemaking for over 8,000 years, positioning Georgia as the cradle of viticulture. This nation didn’t merely launch a wine culture; it embodies the very essence of wine culture.
What sets Georgian wine apart is not just its age but also its distinctive production technique. A significant number of wines are made in qvevri, sizable clay vessels where pressed grape juice, along with skins, stalks, and seeds, is placed before being buried for three to six months during fermentation. This traditional method enables winemakers to produce wines with pronounced tannins, complexity, and body. Consequently, white wines often result in skin-contact amber varieties (commonly known as “orange”), while rich reds tell a story of heritage.
Georgia boasts 30 established wine PDOs (Protected Designation of Origin) and is home to over 500 native grape varieties, many of which may be unfamiliar to you. The leading red cultivar is Saperavi, indigenous and accountable for 41% of the country’s wine production. This unique teinturier grape, possessing both red flesh and skin, translates literally to “to paint or dye.” It produces deep-colored wines with robust flavors, crisp acidity, robust tannins, and a reputation for aging well. Saperavi wines come in multiple styles, crafted either in qvevri or using European/classical methods in stainless steel tanks or oak barrels.
On the white wine side, the top native grape—and indeed, the most widely cultivated variety in Georgia (making up 42% of total output)—is Rkatsiteli, meaning “red stem” in English. Traditionally vinified in qvevri, this grape produces potent wines with moderate tannins and crisp acidity. Rkatsiteli wines are often vibrant, showcasing flavors of green apple alongside subtle notes of quince and white peach.
The majority of Georgia’s PDOs are located in the Kakheti region, which contains 77% of the country’s vineyards and accounts for 92% of its total wine production. This area benefits from a continental climate, with many vineyards thriving in fertile river basins and soils predominantly made up of alluvial and loamy materials, along with some limestone, shale, and slate.
As global interest in Georgian wines grows, local winemakers pay homage to tradition with their unrefined practices, which include family-owned vineyards, minimal intervention, and a focus on heritage over fleeting trends. If your wine collection feels somewhat standard with Bordeaux or Napa offerings, contemplate trying a bottle from the origin of wine culture:
- Teliani Vineyards Glekhuri Saperavi Qvevri 2021 (SRP $25.99) (Kakheti) – This rich ruby wine presents aromas of dried black figs, blackcurrants, and blackberries. On the palate, it unveils dark chocolate nuances, supported by velvety tannins and a well-rounded structure. After fermentation, the wine ages on its skins in qvevri for six months, followed by an additional four months in qvevri after skin removal, and then a year in French oak barrels. Shop here.
- Schuchmann Saperavi 2022 (SRP $13.99) (Kakheti) – This inky wine showcases bold notes of fresh red and black fruits with a hint of spice. Fermented in stainless steel tanks, it features softer tannins balanced by refreshing acidity. Shop here.
- Dugladze Wine Rkatsiteli Qvevri 2018 (SRP $15) (Kakheti) – Produced using the traditional qvevri method, this skin-contact amber wine presents scents of honey and tobacco intermingled with spicy notes, featuring pronounced tannins and a lingering finish.
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